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1100 –1200 in European fashion
In the twelfth century, European fashion remained largely unchanged in its basic cut, with variations mainly seen in details. Over time, however, garments started to become more form-fitting and similar for both men and women, a trend that continued into the 13th century. For men, knee-length tunics were common attire for most activities, while those of the upper classes preferred long tunics paired with hose and mantles or cloaks. Women typically wore long tunics or gowns, with a close fit to the body, full skirts, and long flaring sleeves being characteristic of upper-class fashion for both genders.
During this period, two distinct styles of dress coexisted for men. The first was a short (knee-length) costume, which evolved from a blend of the everyday dress of the later Roman Empire and the short tunics worn by the invading barbarians. The second was a long (ankle-length) costume, which traced its origins to the clothing of the Roman upper classes and was influenced by Byzantine dress. These two styles reflected the diverse cultural influences present in medieval European fashion.
Country : European
Evolution of Medieval Men's Fashion
During the medieval period, men’s fashion reflected a blend of influences from the declining Roman Empire and the cultural influx of invading barbarians. Two distinct styles coexisted: a short knee-length costume, combining elements of Roman and barbarian attire, and a long ankle-length garment inspired by the clothing of the Roman elite and Byzantine dress. These styles represented both practicality and social status, with fabrics and furs playing significant roles in defining luxury and comfort.
Wool remained the predominant fabric across all social classes, while linen undergarments gained popularity for their comfort and washability. The elite indulged in silk garments, imported from Byzantium and Andalusia through various trade routes. Fur linings, particularly vair sourced from squirrel fur, provided warmth and luxury, often adorning the mantles of the wealthy as depicted in illuminated manuscripts.
A notable addition to medieval fashion was the bliaut, a long outer tunic with full skirts and tightly fitted sleeves. Initially featuring a moderate fit and a slight blousing over the waist belt, the bliaut evolved to emphasize a tighter fit from shoulder to hip, with the belt wrapped twice around the waist and knotted in front. This French fashion trend transcended gender boundaries, becoming a staple for both men and women, showcasing the evolving tastes and styles of medieval Europe.
Men's Clothing in the Middle Ages
Women's clothing
Chemise and Tunic
Women’s attire during this period typically comprised an undergarment known as a chemise, chainse, or smock, usually crafted from linen. Over this, they would wear one or more ankle-length tunics, also referred to as gowns or kirtles. Working-class women often opted for tunics belted at the waist and reaching down to their ankles.
Meanwhile, women of the French court favored a more sophisticated ensemble, consisting of a loosely fitted tunic called a cotte or a form-fitting bliaut worn atop a full chemise with snug sleeves. The bliaut featured a flared skirt and sleeves tapering tight to the elbow before widening out to a trumpet shape at the wrist. Another style, the bliaut gironé, gained popularity mid-century, comprising a fitted upper portion with a finely pleated skirt attached to a low waistband.
In England, the prevailing fashion diverged slightly, with garments featuring wide wrists but lacking the trumpet-shaped flare from the elbow commonly seen in French attire. Additionally, some variations of the fitted bliaut were accessorized with long belts or cinctures, which encircled a slightly raised waist and were often knotted over the abdomen, sometimes adorned with decorative tassels or metal tags at the ends.
Hairstyles
In accordance with Christian traditions, married women adorned veils over their hair during the Middle Ages. Often parted in the center, their hair cascaded into long braids, sometimes augmented with artificial or even hair purchased from the deceased—a practice frowned upon by moral authorities. This custom underscored the cultural significance attributed to hair during this period, serving as a means of expressing social distinctions.
In England, a new addition to women’s attire emerged toward the end of the era: the wimple. Comprising a linen cloth covering the throat, and sometimes extending to cover the chin, the wimple was secured around the head beneath the veil. This garment further contributed to the intricate layers of clothing and accessories that defined medieval fashion, reflecting both religious and societal norms of the time.
Style Points
A woman is depicted wearing a bliaut, a garment cut in one piece from neck to hem and laced at the sides, over a chemise with tight sleeves, while donning a mantle tied with a double cord. This attire is showcased in the Cathédrale Saint-Maurice d’Angers, dating between 1130 and 1160. Another variation, the bliaut gironé, features a finely pleated skirt attached to a decorative waistband at hip level and is typically accompanied by a knotted girdle or cincture, as observed in the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres from the same period. A closer look at the knotted girdle worn with the bliaut gironé reveals the waistband of the skirt above the intricate knotting.
In another scene, Eve is portrayed spinning while adorned in a long bliaut with straight sleeves and a linen veil, around the year 1170. Additionally, depicted in the Hunterian Psalter are two women showcasing differing styles. One woman wears a veil and mantle, while the other, possibly reflecting English fashion of the time, leaves her hair uncovered, and her bliaut sleeves widen at the wrist, suggesting a fashion trend around 1170. Lastly, Queen Leonor of England, positioned on the far left, is depicted wearing a veil that envelops most of her body, illustrating a royal attire choice of the era.
Working Clothes
During the early Romanesque period, various regional schools of manuscript illumination emerged, each with its distinct influences and styles. The “Channel school” in England and Northern France drew heavily from late Anglo-Saxon art, while Southern France leaned towards Iberian influence. In Germany and the Low Countries, Ottonian styles persisted and influenced Italy, alongside Byzantine influences. Despite reciprocal influences, regional distinctiveness remained prominent throughout the 12th century.
Romanesque illuminated manuscripts typically focused on religious texts such as the Bible and Psalter. Each book would often feature large historiated initials and illuminated major initials, sometimes with elaborate cycles of scenes on fully illuminated pages. Examples include the St. Albans Psalter, Winchester Bible, and Parc Abbey Bible. By the end of the period, commercial workshops began producing illuminated manuscripts more widely, making them accessible to both clergy and laity.
European Fashion Female
The 12th century in Europe marked a significant transition in female fashion, as societal changes influenced clothing styles. During this period, women’s attire began to reflect class distinctions more prominently than before. Noblewomen often wore elaborate garments made from luxurious fabrics like silk and velvet, adorned with intricate embroidery and jewels, showcasing their wealth and status. These garments typically featured long, flowing silhouettes, with fitted bodices and voluminous skirts that emphasized femininity and elegance. Additionally, headwear played a crucial role in completing the ensemble, with women donning veils, wimples, and headdresses that varied depending on their social standing and the occasion.
As European society became more sophisticated and interconnected, fashion trends from neighboring regions began to influence female attire. The Crusades, for instance, facilitated cultural exchange between Europe and the Middle East, leading to the incorporation of exotic elements into women’s clothing. Fabrics such as damask and brocade, as well as design motifs like arabesques and geometric patterns, became fashionable among the European elite. Furthermore, the rise of trade routes during this period enabled the availability of new textiles and dyes, expanding the color palette of women’s garments. This era saw a departure from the plain, earthy tones of previous centuries, with rich jewel tones and vibrant hues becoming increasingly popular.
However, while the upper class enjoyed opulent fashion, the majority of women in Europe during the 12th century wore simpler, more practical clothing suited to their daily activities. Peasant women typically donned basic dresses made from homespun wool or linen, often cinched at the waist with a belt for ease of movement. Head coverings like coifs or simple veils provided protection from the elements while working outdoors. Despite the disparity in attire between social classes, the evolution of female fashion during the 1100s and 1200s laid the groundwork for the diverse styles that would emerge in the centuries to come, reflecting the dynamic cultural landscape of medieval Europe.
13th Century Clothing for Females
In the 13th century, European fashion for women underwent notable transformations, reflecting the evolving socio-economic landscape and cultural influences of the time. During this period, women’s attire was characterized by a blend of modesty and elegance, with garments tailored to accentuate the feminine form while adhering to societal norms. The typical ensemble consisted of several layers, starting with a chemise, a simple linen garment serving as a base layer, followed by a fitted gown, often laced or buttoned at the front.
One distinctive feature of 13th-century European fashion was the prevalence of the bliaut, a form-fitting gown with long, tight sleeves and a voluminous skirt. This garment, often made of luxurious fabrics such as silk or velvet, exemplified the status and wealth of the wearer. Additionally, women adorned themselves with ornate belts, jeweled brooches, and headdresses, further enhancing their ensemble’s elegance and refinement. The silhouette was characterized by a high waistline, accentuating the natural curves of the body, while the neckline varied from modestly high to more revealing, depending on the occasion and social standing.
Furthermore, the color palette of women’s clothing in the 13th century ranged from rich jewel tones to earthy hues, reflecting both personal preferences and the availability of dyes. Royal and noble women often donned garments embellished with intricate embroidery and embellishments, showcasing their affluence and taste. Despite regional variations across Europe, certain fashion trends transcended borders, facilitated by trade and cultural exchange. Overall, the fashion of the 13th century in Europe exemplified a balance between tradition and innovation, shaping the aesthetic sensibilities of generations to come.
FAQ
FAQ
Most frequent questions and answers
1. What was the Royal Fashion in the 1200s?
In the 1200s, European royal fashion epitomized opulence and refinement, reflecting the prestige and power of monarchs across the continent. Royal attire was characterized by sumptuous fabrics such as velvet, silk, and brocade, adorned with intricate embroidery and embellishments crafted from precious metals and gemstones. Men’s fashion saw the emergence of elaborate tunics and robes, often featuring ornate patterns and lavish fur trims, while women’s attire boasted voluminous gowns with exaggerated sleeves and intricate drapery. Royal garments were meticulously tailored to accentuate status and authority, with regal symbols and heraldic motifs woven into the fabric. Accessories played a crucial role in completing the royal ensemble, with crowns, scepters, and jeweled belts serving as symbols of sovereignty and majesty. Overall, royal fashion in the 1200s showcased the pinnacle of medieval craftsmanship and luxury, setting the standards for nobility and aristocracy throughout Europe.
2. What is European fashion style?
3. What was fashion like in the 1550s England?
4. What is European men’s style?
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